Radon Mitigation Directory

Radon mitigation cost guide

What you'll actually pay to fix radon — and why the price varies.

What radon work costs

Radon mitigation (the fix)
$800 – $2,500
typical ~$1,200

Most homes are fixed with an active sub-slab depressurization system: a sealed PVC pipe and a continuously running fan that pull radon-laden soil gas from beneath the foundation and vent it safely above the roofline. Price depends on foundation type (slab, crawl space, basement), the number of suction points needed, and how the pipe is routed. Larger homes, multiple foundations, or crawl-space encapsulation push toward the high end.

Radon testing (the measurement)
$100 – $200
typical ~$150

A short-term test during a real-estate transaction typically runs about $150. This tells you whether you have a problem; it does not fix one. Testing pros are home inspectors — useful, but not who you hire to install a system.

These are planning ranges, not quotes. A contractor confirms price after seeing your foundation and your radon level.

What drives the price

Foundation type is the biggest factor. A single-slab or basement home with one suction point is at the low end; homes with multiple foundations, a crawl space needing encapsulation, or difficult pipe routing cost more. Add-ons like a new sump lid, extra sealing, or an aesthetic exterior route can nudge the total up. Nearly all reputable installs include a post-mitigation retest to confirm the level dropped below 4.0 pCi/L.

Testing is separate — and cheap

A short-term real-estate test is about $150. It tells you whether you need mitigation; it isn't the fix. Don't confuse a low testing quote with the cost of a system.

Radon questions, answered

My home sale is stuck because of a high radon test. What now?

A radon result above the EPA action level of 4.0 pCi/L commonly triggers a repair request in the inspection contingency. The fix is fast: a certified mitigation contractor can usually install a system in a single day, and a post-mitigation retest confirms the level has dropped. Most deals that pause for radon close once a system is installed and documented — buyers are reassured by a certified system plus a passing retest.

What's the difference between radon testing and radon mitigation?

Testing measures the radon level in your home (a ~$150 job done by a certified measurement pro or home inspector). Mitigation is the physical fix — installing a system that removes radon — done by a certified mitigation contractor and typically costing $800–$2,500. This directory leads with mitigation contractors because that's who you hire once a test comes back high.

How much does radon mitigation cost?

Most single-family homes fall between $800 and $2,500, with a typical cost around $1,200. Foundation type, home size, and the number of suction points drive the price. Testing is separate and much cheaper (~$150).

How does a radon mitigation system actually work?

The most common approach is active sub-slab depressurization. A contractor cores a hole through the slab, runs a sealed PVC pipe from beneath the foundation up and out above the roofline, and adds an inline fan that runs continuously. The fan creates suction under the slab so radon gas is drawn out and vented before it can enter your living space. A manometer (U-tube gauge) shows the system is working.

Passive vs. active mitigation — which do I need?

A passive system relies on natural pressure differences (the 'stack effect') and is often roughed in during new construction. If a passive system doesn't get the level low enough, it's upgraded to active by adding a fan. Most existing homes with a confirmed radon problem end up with an active system because it's far more reliable.

Are these contractors certified?

Every contractor listed here appears on the AARST / NRPP National Radon Proficiency Program registry and, where applicable, holds state radon certification. Radon is a health and real-estate issue, so certification matters — we link each pro's credential so you can verify it yourself.

How high is too high?

The EPA recommends fixing your home at 4.0 pCi/L or above and considering a fix between 2.0 and 4.0 pCi/L. There is no completely safe level of radon; lower is always better. Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer overall and the leading cause among people who have never smoked.

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